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Schloss Charlottenburg

Two days ago, galvanized by 60-degree weather and a day off, I rode my bike to the Schloss Charlottenburg. There is a way to get there following the Spree and its canals much of the way, which are, I've felt for a long time, among the nicest and most underused parts of Berlin. This landlocked city has at least a lot of water running through it, but unlike in, say, Paris, the water is often not obvious: the paths along it have a discontinuous character, relating sometimes to the old partition of Berlin, or new construction, or some other quirk of planning. On one of the Spree's larger branches in Mitte, the path along the water passes right through the old Invaliden cemetery (where the Red Baron, the World War I pilot, was originally buried, along with many eminent Prussians), which in turn contains segments of the Wall itself and the second, East German wall. You pass through the death strip in the middle of a cemetery.  It took several trips to the Schloss Charlottenburg to ar...

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